Scud the blockwork

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Mouldyoldspudgun said:
The only problem with that is that people won’t pay for plum and dot as it takes to long and costs to much
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Yep...totally agree...my point was that it's all very good saying my floating ace but in reality following the block work which we all know can be all over the place...

Imo setting out is the only way to ensure near as perfect floated wall.
 
zombie said:
With the greatest of respect Andy I'm not for 1 minute saying I can't float a wall without...

But what I'm saying is if you set each internal bang level string line and set your ceiling & skirtng line and set every 600mm level.

You can't get a truer wall than that no matter who you are or how good you think you are.
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Since when did floated walls have have to be spot on level any way . As long as they are straight and level to the eye that is all that matters. To prove my point just take a level around any old house and check how level the so cold tradesmen of yesteryear got there walls even when they had all the time in the world to get it right.
 
beader said:
Since when did floated walls have have to be spot on level any way . As long as they are straight and level to the eye that is all that matters. To prove my point just take a level around any old house and check how level the so cold tradesmen of yesteryear got there walls even when they had all the time in the world to get it right.
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But that's my point...

Same argument can be said when sorting really pisssd walls when dot and dab...

You have to make a decision before you start either go with the walls or go with the spirit level.

1 is a proper job the other is make do job...

Not saying that either is right or wrong but just saying that imo that's the only way to ensure a perfect job
 
zombie said:
Yep...totally agree...my point was that it's all very good saying my floating ace but in reality following the block work which we all know can be all over the place...

Imo setting out is the only way to ensure near as perfect floated wall.
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But when you're using the screed method you're not just following the block work, well you shouldn't be.
I don't think my old Irish mate Gary is on here, but if he were he could tell you how he had to have a pound coin in his pocket at all times to check every bit of floating work he did with me.
If the pound coin could pass behind his featheredge then the wall wasn't straight enough.
High enough standard?
 
It is not a plasterers job to put a bricklayers work right. If it is called for then it has to book paid for . That is my point weather it is dabbing or floating it all takes time to put right . Time is money ..
 
essexandy said:
But when you're using the screed method you're not just following the block work, well you shouldn't be.
I don't think my old Irish mate Gary is on here, but if he were he could tell you how he had to have a pound coin in his pocket at all times to check every bit of floating work he did with me.
If the pound coin could pass behind his featheredge then the wall wasn't straight enough.
High enough standard?
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A job recently had a tolerance of a mm a metre
 
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zombie said:
But that's my point...

Same argument can be said when sorting really pisssd walls when dot and dab...

You have to make a decision before you start either go with the walls or go with the spirit level.

1 is a proper job the other is make do job...

Not saying that either is right or wrong but just saying that imo that's the only way to ensure a perfect job
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You can’t use spirit levels on most jobs you eye beads to window frames and door liners and measure margins otherwise if you get it level
zombie said:
Yep...totally agree...my point was that it's all very good saying my floating ace but in reality following the block work which we all know can be all over the place...

Imo setting out is the only way to ensure near as perfect floated wall.
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i don’t think many plasterers follow the block work unless house bashing, mostly if it looks right then it is right wether it’s plum or not, after all if you set your beads plum and the door liners, windows etc are pissed your beads will look wrong
 
essexandy said:
But when you're using the screed method you're not just following the block work, well you shouldn't be.
I don't think my old Irish mate Gary is on here, but if he were he could tell you how he had to have a pound coin in his pocket at all times to check every bit of floating work he did with me.
If the pound coin could pass behind his featheredge then the wall wasn't straight enough.
High enough standard?
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That's all good and well but I'm not talking about being straight and flatt...

I'm talking about getting everything bang bang level which imo is much easier to achieve setting out first....

Not disputing your ability...horses for courses
 
Absolutely painful to watch that dinosaur faffing about!!! :) I know that’s the method your taught in colleges, but f**k me u wouldn’t earn a penny on a price. Just chuck the wall on and rule off free hand. The skimmers on here would s**t themselves because it takes real skill to use a rule properly!
 
Cockney1 said:
Absolutely painful to watch that dinosaur faffing about!!! :) I know that’s the method your taught in colleges, but f**k me u wouldn’t earn a penny on a price. Just chuck the wall on and rule off free hand. The skimmers on here would s**t themselves because it takes real skill to use a rule properly!
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you mean run an edge across a wall then up it fill hollows and rule again....ceilings angles and scirts straight....theres no skill in that.
my god is everyone pished tonight ??

good block work is effortless.
as to getting every wall level on shite block work
your in for a busier day than expected.
tiled areas locker rooms kitchens etc i can understand.
but it doesnt have to be level everytime on every wall.
 
That is Exsess Andy's point. If it's a high suction substrate you would not stand a chance of putting a hole wall on and getting it anywhere near straight before the suction got the better of you .But if you do it using box screeds then your have a better way of controlling things.
 
algeeman said:
you mean run an edge across a wall then up it fill hollows and rule again....ceilings angles and scirts straight....theres no skill in that.
my god is everyone pished tonight ??

good block work is effortless.
as to getting every wall level on shite block work
your in for a busier day than expected.
tiled areas locker rooms kitchens etc i can understand.
but it doesnt have to be level everytime on every wall.
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Rule across AND up the wall mate :cool:
We never get good block work to follow though. Most jobs it's an absolute nightmare. Don't see point In this dot and screed when if it's ruled right, it will be straight. If the blockwork is plum and frames and beads are plum then the straightening won't be far away off it.
 
algeeman said:
you mean run an edge across a wall then up it fill hollows and rule again....ceilings angles and scirts straight....theres no skill in that.
my god is everyone pished tonight ??

good block work is effortless.
as to getting every wall level on shite block work
your in for a busier day than expected.
tiled areas locker rooms kitchens etc i can understand.
but it doesnt have to be level everytime on every wall.
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Don’t understand what your on about mate? I don’t give a s**t how bad the blockwork is? If u have the skills then u can make it straight!! Just take pride in your work that’s all. There was a time when it was the spreads job to get everything straight and plumb. Apparently not anymore by what some say on here!
 
all I know the jobs I work on and people I work for it’s quantity rather than quality, no screeds or levels just a straight edge get it on rule it off. Not to my taste personally but that’s the way it is.
 
beader said:
That is Exsess Andy's point. If it's a high suction substrate you would not stand a chance of putting a hole wall on and getting it anywhere near straight before the suction got the better of you .But if you do it using box screeds then your have a better way of controlling things.
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Or why not put something on to slow suction, scud with waterproofer, rend aid etc If mortar dries to quickly into the substrate, it has a chance of going bolster and blowing off.
 
Simon85 said:
Rule across AND up the wall mate :cool:
We never get good block work to follow though. Most jobs it's an absolute nightmare. Don't see point In this dot and screed when if it's ruled right, it will be straight. If the blockwork is plum and frames and beads are plum then the straightening won't be far away off it.
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i said up it
 
Cockney1 said:
Absolutely painful to watch that dinosaur faffing about!!! :) I know that’s the method your taught in colleges, but f**k me u wouldn’t earn a penny on a price. Just chuck the wall on and rule off free hand. The skimmers on here would s**t themselves because it takes real skill to use a rule properly!
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That depends who you're doing the price site work for.
I spent the best part of my working life doing S&C float & set on sites, big and small, every one done using the screed method.
 
Cockney1 said:
Don’t understand what your on about mate? I don’t give a s**t how bad the blockwork is? If u have the skills then u can make it straight!! Just take pride in your work that’s all. There was a time when it was the spreads job to get everything straight and plumb. Apparently not anymore by what some say on here!
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Not with some of the rates how could they.
 
essexandy said:
That depends who you're doing the price site work for.
I spent the best part of my working life doing S&C float & set on sites, big and small, every one done using the screed method.
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Many years ago I suspect? Times have changed now though.
 
essexandy said:
That depends who you're doing the price site work for.
I spent the best part of my working life doing S&C float & set on sites, big and small, every one done using the screed method.
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Ok on day work I suppose, but not on a price. I started off floating like that many moons ago but I soon learned to master the art of ruling off and adjusted my method accordingly.
 
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