Why are quotes all over the shop?

bof said:
Lol , I said I explained ,
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before .....
Why are quotes all over the shop?
 
bof said:
No worries , its a garage you'll be OK , just jibing at all that cost and effort not to go the extra bit for future possible use , Zinn is great product but I've once used garage floor paint on gypsum walls in a bathroom and shower , had no problems , price is a fraction
At a guess SBR in MF skim would cause problems with finishing but heyho give it a go on a small patch
Insulation in roof is good enough , would have stapled 12mm strips of insulation on joists and cellotex to level then staple membrane over , cost is £30 and a few hrs work , isolates cold bridging on joists and membrane prevents air gaps forming condensation on top of board , stops sagging , against no worries , its a garage
Single skin walls cause same on back of boards , thermal boards with foam adhesive and fire fixings
DON'T FORGET I'M DIY , all be it 40 yr in the game and still not a clue lol
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Where were you 20 pages ago!!? Good, proper sensible advice. Wonder how many people would step out of their comfort zone (d&d) and actually use the foam...?

I think I can count posts like this on one hand on this site.... Been reading some of the "tell me what to do!" posts in the DIY section and if you boys aren't getting your kicks by ripping OP apart you're telling em to do one and hire a proper plasterer!

You need a collective...
 

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Mos said:
Where were you 20 pages ago!!? Good, proper sensible advice. Wonder how many people would step out of their comfort zone (d&d) and actually use the foam...?

I think I can count posts like this on one hand on this site.... Been reading some of the "tell me what to do!" posts in the DIY section and if you boys aren't getting your kicks by ripping OP apart you're telling em to do one and hire a proper plasterer!

You need a collective...
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Mos said:
Where were you 20 pages ago!!? Good, proper sensible advice. Wonder how many people would step out of their comfort zone (d&d) and actually use the foam...?

I think I can count posts like this on one hand on this site.... Been reading some of the "tell me what to do!" posts in the DIY section and if you boys aren't getting your kicks by ripping OP apart you're telling em to do one and hire a proper plasterer!

You need a collective...
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Hi Mos, nice to meet you. Gavine here .Lets start from scratch . What was your initial question ?
 
bof said:
@Mos were they in this weekend to finish ?
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They were in, but a slow day me-thinks (I could be wrong- they do two coats so perhaps that's why it took longer to even the undulations between rafters and to get the lines straight etc)

Just the splays and velux reveals done today. They're back tomorrow...
 

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Mos said:
They were in, but a slow day me-thinks (I could be wrong- they do two coats so perhaps that's why it took longer to even the undulations between rafters and to get the lines straight etc)

Just the splays and velux reveals done today. They're back tomorrow...
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Its a little bit raggety , however you are lucky, because that is (considerted the high end) of work these days ! Sad but true ! The men on here know what im saying , it is a shame, but it is what it is !
 
Mos said:
They were in, but a slow day me-thinks (I could be wrong- they do two coats so perhaps that's why it took longer to even the undulations between rafters and to get the lines straight etc)

Just the splays and velux reveals done today. They're back tomorrow...
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Cant judge on it at that point of it drying .. you got to think @Mos They have to get the gear up there and work round beam
 
Mos said:
Where were you 20 pages ago!!? Good, proper sensible advice. Wonder how many people would step out of their comfort zone (d&d) and actually use the foam...?

I think I can count posts like this on one hand on this site.... Been reading some of the "tell me what to do!" posts in the DIY section and if you boys aren't getting your kicks by ripping OP apart you're telling em to do one and hire a proper plasterer!

You need a collective...
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Your not doing my reputation any favours with comments like that lol
 
zombie said:
Have you ever been a principal contractor on site employed lads and had to follow manufacturer method statements?

Weve tendered for new build sites /commercial works etc etc etc and can assure you pvaing block work prior to dabbing is not recommended!
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Just out of curiosity, why is it not recommended to PVA blockwork prior to dabbing?
Sorry if this has already been answered, but this thread has over 600 replys and couldn't find it
Thanks again.
 
LocoRay said:
Just out of curiosity, why is it not recommended to PVA blockwork prior to dabbing?
Sorry if this has already been answered, but this thread has over 600 replys and couldn't find it
Thanks again.
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Don't think anyone said it wasn't recommended, just not needed. You can go round a whole house with a feather duster after you've dabbed it to make sure all the boards clear from dust. Won't do any harm but it's a complete waste of time and you'll look like a t**t lol
 
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Robbo123 said:
Don't think anyone said it wasn't recommended, just not needed. You can go round a whole house with a feather duster after you've dabbed it to make sure all the boards clear from dust. Won't do any harm but it's a complete waste of time and you'll look like a t**t lol
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Do you normally plaster onto dusty surfaces then?
You’ll look even more of a t**t when you’re boards pop off. Lol
 
Cockney1 said:
Do you normally plaster onto dusty surfaces then?
You’ll look even more of a t**t when you’re boards pop off. Lol
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Nope, but unless you're a messy f**k*r the boards shouldn't be dusty in the first place :)
 
BG Sitebook and guides on dotndab - nowhere does it say or demo using pva on Therms/PFA products. Brush it down with a wet yardbrush if necessary and maybe brush dust off the back of the board aswell if need be, then get it up. Somewhere in the book it says it relies upon one surface being absorbent;

"Backgrounds should be reasonably dry and protected from the weather. Brush down backgrounds to remove dust.
Cast concrete must be free of shutter release agents and dampened before applying adhesive dabs. Some concrete
will need pre-treatment with ThistleBond-it applied in bands corresponding to adhesive dab locations (e.g. if
exceptionally dense or smooth, or made with limestone, brick or granite aggregates)
Allow for variations in background suction - allow excessively wet backgrounds to dry, and in hot/dry conditions take care to avoid rapid loss of moisture prior to the set of the adhesive "
 
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