Why are quotes all over the shop?

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FreeD said:
I agree with you though mate there’s lots out there that don’t have a clue was speaking to a customer yesterday...half the price of my quote plasterer told her no need to PVA painted Artex ceiling before skimming as it already has a key?! She went with the quote
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makes sense though. mechanical key better than sticky key ;)
 
i think in all honesty the manufacturers of pva are the reason spreads use it for everything they do, its often not necessary but it just seems like the right thing to do. its wood glue at the end of the day.
pva did not even exist not so many years ago.
 
tapit said:
i have run out and just wet the wall with h2o, never had a callback.
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If the MF is thin and painter used well wet down paint it can delaminate with hard pressure of roller , like my attitude with dry PVA , shortcuts not necessary
 
FreeD said:
Insulated boards don’t have to be thick...how about Celotex 27.5mm?
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Honestly did not know they existed, but blimey @ £45/sheet thats mighty expensive & although an effective vapour barrier, the insulation will be barely noticeable.

Yep I know I've definitely cut a corner here, but im hoping I luck out. I've made my peace with reduced level of insulation/thermal comfort, just need to keep a lid on moisture ingress...

However, I had a thought: will mixing sbr into the multifinish also help? What sort of ratio should be used?

Will use this to seal the plaster
 

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Mos said:
Honestly did not know they existed, but blimey @ £45/sheet thats mighty expensive & although an effective vapour barrier, the insulation will be barely noticeable.

Yep I know I've definitely cut a corner here, but im hoping I luck out. I've made my peace with reduced level of insulation/thermal comfort, just need to keep a lid on moisture ingress...

However, I had a thought: will mixing sbr into the multifinish also help? What sort of ratio should be used?

Will use this to seal the plaster
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No worries , its a garage you'll be OK , just jibing at all that cost and effort not to go the extra bit for future possible use , Zinn is great product but I've once used garage floor paint on gypsum walls in a bathroom and shower , had no problems , price is a fraction
At a guess SBR in MF skim would cause problems with finishing but heyho give it a go on a small patch
Insulation in roof is good enough , would have stapled 12mm strips of insulation on joists and cellotex to level then staple membrane over , cost is £30 and a few hrs work , isolates cold bridging on joists and membrane prevents air gaps forming condensation on top of board , stops sagging , against no worries , its a garage
Single skin walls cause same on back of boards , thermal boards with foam adhesive and fire fixings
DON'T FORGET I'M DIY , all be it 40 yr in the game and still not a clue lol
 
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bof said:
No worries , its a garage you'll be OK , just jibing at all that cost and effort not to go the extra bit for future possible use , Zinn is great product but I've once used garage floor paint on gypsum walls in a bathroom and shower , had no problems , price is a fraction
At a guess SBR in MF skim would cause problems with finishing but heyho give it a go on a small patch
Insulation in roof is good enough , would have stapled 12mm strips of insulation on joists and cellotex to level then staple membrane over , cost is £30 and a few hrs work , isolates cold bridging on joists and membrane prevents air gaps forming condensation on top of board , stops sagging , against no worries , its a garage
Single skin walls cause same on back of boards , thermal boards with foam adhesive and fire fixings
DON'T FORGET I'M DIY , all be it 40 yr in the game and still not a clue lol
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Too many words.
 
bof said:
I disagree , water just reduces suction won't help you if your dab sits on a layer of dust , PVA stabilizes , sticks the dust to the block, I'm only diy lol
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Are you mad
Pva over dust means your dots stuck to a thin coat of pva on to dust.
Brush of . Wash off crack on
 
John j said:
Are you mad
Pva over dust means your dots stuck to a thin coat of pva on to dust.
Brush of . Wash off crack on
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pipe down lol just because zombies on his high horse.

The mix would be very weak and pva doesn’t create a ‘coat’ - it re-emulsifies when wetted ie: when dab touches it. You should know this jonny.

I said early on it’s something I’ve always done and could possibly be ‘over the top’ but I’ve never had a
Wall fail. And I have seen walls fail where the board just comes away with the dab stuck to it.

@zombie how’s your skim drying lately?
 
Oh and the dab around the perimeter of boards has only become a requirement in the last 5 or so years I believe
 
John j said:
Are you mad
Pva over dust means your dots stuck to a thin coat of pva on to dust.
Brush of . Wash off crack on
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John , each to their own , for therms this is what I do
Stanley
Brush
Weak PVA
I've said I chase in box's , obviously depends on wall and number
I dab solid at perimeters and around air ingress points box's etc
I dab lots of small dabs , not several big UN's
I board tight as poss , just over cable
Clearly I don't work on site lol ,
 
Sorry lurpy , was working through a list of my good morning complimentary posts and see you and cockney sorted it , robbo still thinks I'm an unskilled moron but he's allowed another vote , cause he was miss informed









( by his brain I think ) lol
 
Just like your joke about no fire fixings for thermal boards and all those other beauties along the way









Eh ?
 
Mos said:
I have insulated between the 6" rafters with 4" kingspan & the floor has 6" kingspan.

Ideally I would have insulated the walls too, however:

1. I really need to maximise the space.

2. The building will be inhabited for approx 4-8hrs/week. When cold, i'd have the heating on anyway. How much would I really save with extra insulation on the walls? But mostly its a space issue- I just don't have it spare. To further mitigate the effects, the sparkie has suggested I install an infrared heater (like the ones on the ceiling in Selco or toolststaion) which apparently warm bodies and not the air as much.

3. Mold needs a source of water/condensate to thrive. After I thoroughly dry the skim, where will that come from if it's only inhabited for short periods of time? What about a paint that I could use to seal the plaster against the ingress of moisture?

4. I can soak up any exceptional humidity using a switched dehumidifier.

5. Trickle vents in the 4 veluxes and doors should maintain good air flow.

In summary, I get the extra space but it costs me a bit more to keep things comfortable.

Okay, pva-ing clean, dry blockwork prior to d&d.....
Why is that necessary?
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Get mould paint. It's expensive and only comes in white that I know of.

Infra red heaters are the future. They'll cost you about £200 a pop. I put them in all my jobs.
 
Stevieo said:
Get mould paint. It's expensive and only comes in white that I know of.

Infra red heaters are the future. They'll cost you about £200 a pop. I put them in all my jobs.
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Mos was mentioning my mum lol ;)
 
lurpak said:
pipe down lol just because zombies on his high horse.

The mix would be very weak and pva doesn’t create a ‘coat’ - it re-emulsifies when wetted ie: when dab touches it. You should know this jonny.

I said early on it’s something I’ve always done and could possibly be ‘over the top’ but I’ve never had a
Wall fail. And I have seen walls fail where the board just comes away with the dab stuck to it.

@zombie how’s your skim drying lately?
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So it goes straight to dust
 
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