Search results

i thought it was just put in the plaster instead!?

chalk lines to find center of ceiling i mean lol not the rose, and i wouldnt use filler to fit the rose! :RpS_bored: i can get hold of some of those brace arm thingys pictured but screws the way forward, these are heavy fkers.

plenty of glue and big ass scrim rolls

what do you need adhesive qualities for!? long as the background has key or aint painted brick etc then i wont use it, waste of time,money and messy.

no way would i be trusting this NO PVA plaster, fk that. the only thing i can see being used on is glossy ceiling etc where glue takes foeever to go off, that be good.

just as a product i find it way costly for what it does, i use cementone freeflow.2 cap fulls in each mix and the tub lasts for ever, 3 in one product, waterproofs, re***ds and plasticises and its ace!

cheers guys, yeah my biggest worry was getting the key right, fresh plaster it is but dry, so just water the ceiling first to kill suction, can i use board adhesive? after marking out the diameter i will place 3 nails at few points around it so i can sit the rose in as a guide. im doing it alone...

dont do it if temps look to plumit anywhere near 3 degrees at nights, or the water in the render could freeze. antifrezze is god idea lol i like it, but i also like the excuse of not being able to render in the cold lol

but its so dear lol

id say this too! or just hack the fker off.

iv never used sbr in render mixes, its dear as fook and many other types of water proofer out there. i worked with a spread on this job once and he was chucking it in the scratch and top..... over painted brickwork that he had also sbr ed lol i was like, where the hell is the suction gunna come...

what would putting bonding in with muilty achieve?

forgot to quote lol ^^

fking hel, with those prices....give us a job lol down here its about 1000 a floor, so a house be around 2000 + any pissing around bits etc. 2500 for a flat! dam!

but you cant trowel up with one of these right!? just lay work down, so whats the point.... i mean you ll still have to limit how much you can put on so you have time to trowel it all up using just your trowel.

hi lads, sorry if in wrong category please MOD move if so. just a quick bit of help, been asked to fit 2 rather large and heavy ceiling roses end of week, on fresh plaster ceilings. ill tell you my method i was going to take as fitted few before but nothing as big! watery pva to kill the...

these 2 options. Seal damp floors - liquid coatings

there is one huge spot where the concret has popped, so could well be a pipe.... i think further investigation is needed lol thanks artisan, ill advise him with options and try work out some costs, i could do it all cheaper for him for mates rates but on a product im not firmiliar with and...

cheers for advise guys, im looking for the most cost effective as my mates skint but i does need doing properly so its sealed. been looking into these epoxy resin systems, like stopgap F75-76 . might give them a call and see how the product can be garenteed, as id hate to do it cheaper for him...

hi guys, i do a fair bit of damp proof work for local companies but always tend to shy away from taking on my own jobs even though i pretty much know the methods used, as they have the certificates and gaurentees which i dont. but i looked at a friends house this evening that he just...

is it always a free hand edge with quoins? no bead used?

looks fine to me. take the skirting as your eye level.

your a plasterer, form it with your trowel! then use a plastic bag to polish and push true.

dustpan brush!

ah right i see! thanks mate, so you make them thicker and then once cured go back and flat render up to them.

like this guy.... Plastering Corner Stones - YouTube then how do you finish to the new detail work? cover the rest of the scratch.

what does happen to the scratch bit after too? i watched a few vids last night on this and they do these corners after the hole building is scratched, then peel off whats not needed doing these quoins, then your left with the rest of the building to top out...... so how do you go about butting...

that looks cool! id like to have a go at that!

quick search found this..... Link Removed

lol, im not saying it will STOP cracking.

you dont get it, the scratch coat its self helps to solid up the back ground and the wavy gives less chance of a crack following a straight line in say the mortor joint etc. plus its a key for the top obviously.

dirty water, keep some in a coke bottle for emergencys...... or hot water works too. also over mixing the gauge, whisk it for ages, get some air into it.

this^ anyone can do it, can hire the **** to do it.....only thing a bigger firm can do is garentee the work.

never, but that dosnt mean its not true. have a read up about it.

its done wavy to stager the top coat sitting on the scratches, helps to reduce cracking along a single fault line and structure.

ah right, na builder wanted it to the floor to match exsisting, i expressed my concerns and he told me to do it anyways. about it really. drier, we just call it dryer mix. lingo got confused :)

?what ya mean lad

sorry, horizontals.

i like it with just the verticals, might do that when i get round to doing my garden.

pics as promised :)

i wouldnt use pva as a bonding agent outside, but mixed up with part water and used a sealing agent on loose/dusty surfaces is fine. if you want it to stick use sbr. a slurry is a bit OTT imo. sounds like you ll have plenty of key on the old scratch . i hardly ever use sbr with my rendering as...

i couldnt get a job there, im not foreign

4-1 scratch , 5-1 top with big shovel of lime...... and whatever additives i have lying around.

thats the point mate, after its rubbed some parts stay wetter longer for what ever reason, so youll sponge up whats ready and while im there will sponge up the wetish too, but youll need to go back over it to tighten the grain, generally i spounge twice, as i like the finer grain left with the 2nd.

over sponging your prob thinking of 5-10 times. if you do it 2-3 if nessesary then its fine, but youll find the grain will get finer again and youll end up having to do the hole flank to match.... prob just me being anal there mind lol your right though, iv over worked the spounge in the past...

not if the right sand is used and some lime in the mix no mate. furing is a thing of the past with my mix.

took some on my phone mate, will upload once i work out where i left my micro adaptor SD jobby :)

not that i drop my beads to the floor anyhow but how would you get cold bridging in a internal corner touching the floor? you saying the concret/screed floor could be cold? coz if thats the case you may have more concerning issues than condensation on a bead....

im sick of plaster etc. i might change/learn a new trade but the pay cut will hurt the living.

looks like a light terolean.