Search results

Not much of a market for either of those tho. Not particularly fashionable anymore.

In fairness, none of them set regs for water penetration and building control is currently all over it. Some parts of the UK are now at 20mm minimum. If you have a warrantied spec from any of them at 10mm I'd like to see it.

I'm winding him up!

If a painter came to me and said, "I only use Dulux, it's all I know...." I'd go and get a proper painter.

Sensible hat on. I would imagine that the logistics of trying to service hundreds if not thousands of small accounts themselves would be next to impossible. 20-50000 tonne a week I was told that the plants kick out. They would then have the problem that no one would want to stock the gear if...

Get used to them all and put on what the punter asks for. Trying to tell the punter what they will get is a mugs game. On a side note, anyone find in their Weber jobs cracking a bit at the moment?

Polarised Ski goggles.... I'm not kidding.

Allow about £15-18 + vat per m2 for the materials to cover all eventualities and the rest is up to you. That's if you've got a supplier who doesn't want to pin your hat on.

For their scratch renders maybe, not the thin coats, base needs to fully cure. 2 weeks they reckon. Very few wait the full 2 weeks though.

Spec for most thin coats is to allow base coat to cure for 2 weeks before priming. You risk peeling otherwise.

Sometimes taking some of the strength out the cement maybe a good thing though I suppose. Especially on some of the guff blocks that are about.

Mac, what's that crack guarantee you are on about?

Lol, he's got arse on with the gear because it didn't get itself out the bag and put itself on the wall.

I heard it had big problems when it was released, never used it then. I dare say that it would have been looked it if it was causing problems by now. I've sprayed quite a bit over the last 10 months or so and it's been fine. It will go on wet as well. I don't run it sloppy usually though.

The K1 is lovely though, sprays the best out of the lot I find, Parex a close second. FT has always needed a good double mix to get the silicone going. It's not supposed to be compared to basic renders out there.

Old trick, mist over walls with water a couple of hours before scratching and it should turn the skin lighter. When rubbing it then comes through as darker, much easier to see misses. Not needed to do it for a bit though.

If there's not a lot of suction, breeze and lowish temps you can add a couple of hours onto your day but same day should be usually easily achievable this time of year with Weber and K Rend. Parex is the slowest of the lot I find. The machines are great until they break and it can quickly get...

What's putting beads on got to do with anything I'm curious to know?

Why has the client got to listen to you? It's not your property lol. Learn the job, realise every material is different and give the punter what they want. If a decorator told you he won't apply dulux after you'd spent hours listening to the Mrs pick the colour you'd think they were an idiot no?

2 pass wet on wet. Anything else and the gear is out of designed spec. You can't moan about gear if you aren't applying right in the first place. Coverage at 15mm is 0.8 a 25kg bag always has been. Parex pulls just over a metre at 30kg no matter what the reps reckon. Do the math. FT is fine...

1.7kg per mm per metre. Standard stuff across the board, don't forget to include the couple of mm you scratch away in that.

Problem. Exists. Between. Trowel. And. Wall. You in other words. It appears I was correct. I hope you primed if you applied over a few days old first pass, do you normally do that?

If your machine has a pump clamp available for it, get it fitted.

Sounds like PEBTAW to me.... Always double mix FT and run it a touch softer rather than stiffer. It'll behave nicely after that, not as easy as the non silicone renders but still, its ok.

Rendit do some gear that you can coat it with that should help. I've just used it on the advice of someone here to fix some rain damage and it worked a treat. Someone from Rendit used to post here but not seen them for a bit.

Having sprayed a lot of this but try to use the K1 where I can I would suggest that you haven't got the material figured out.

Because your average chemical scientists are a lot more knowledgeable and have much more expensive equipment then the average renderer like us I guess.

Parex has a longer set than Weber by quite a way. I'm guessing you rubbed to early.

Does it work then? I've got rain streaks on a job and the punters moaning... Colour a good match? Don't fancy coating the entire job for one poxy wall.

I'm guessing you use magic render that fully cures to the right colour in 24 hours then? Is it cheap?

I can't be the only guy to have a customer jumping up and down just after a scrape saying that the colour was wrong surely? 2-3 weeks to get to the correct final colour, every manufacturer states that is their curing time.

You might as well give the punter sand and cement if you want to leave them with absolutely no warranties.

I'm sure it'll crop up at some point, one of the lads has used it already.

I'm not a spec changer, if somebody wants something that's what they get. There's a good chance trying to change spec will only earn you a nod, wink and thanks for your time as there's always someone who will put on what the customer wants. We'll even hand apply FT if that's what we are asked...

They have all had problems in the past though. Parex EHI wasn't / isn't as good as the Monorex to apply, and Parex imo isn't a particularly good fit for the UK's climate without spending more money. I've seen recent Weber jobs where 7 nm blocks are shattered like glass and others are saying the...

Over strong mortars and renders can crack blocks. We coated new builds that have stood water tight for months and months only recently for the blocks to crack within a week of the stuff going on.

Persimmon, Linden, TW etc all use 7's in my neck of the woods not seen any other which is strange. I've had the odd small builder use lightweight blocks and at that point I call the reps to explain to them what's needed. Never had any tell me to just whack it on.

K1 a couple of years ago had issues, so did a couple of others. Not sure why, today it's very nice gear. There was a time even the fabled Monorex wasn't as good as it is today, funnily enough it dried a bit quicker back then. I have a written K Rend spec straight onto block yes, there's...

It'd need to be, I wouldn't trust any gear applied to correct thickness in one hit. Every rep and technical guy I've spoke to has said 2 passes and watering is belt n braces for no additional cost so that's what I'm sticking to. It works for every brand n all so we can just apply what the...

I 2 pass everything with a wet down, corporation pop is cheaper than accelerator I find. We also stress patch in the first pass. Trying to bang 18mm on in one hit sounds great in any gear until you get that one job it won't stay on the wall. No thanks.

All the K Rend range is specced to go straight onto correct blocks by the way.

I hope you get your customers to sign absolving you of any responsibility! No render is within spec on those blocks, how to they get them signed off by the NHBC etc? That weight block is only good for internal walls.

As far as I'm aware there's no manufacturer recommends mono application on that strength block or so their reps tell me...

I've been spraying K1 straight onto block all week mate.

Why pay for something you don't have to?

Why am I seeing nothing like this? You using K1 or the E grade? 12 months ago I would have agreed with you on the K1, one of the lads suggested we try it again and it's completely different. We always 2 pass and wet down before and after, we like to see where we are scratching.

You should give the current K1 a go, sprays lovely and less chance of still being on site a 8pm wondering if it will still be ok in the morning. Parex maybe sprays only slightly better but it take bloody ages to go off! Not had any cracks in the last 6 months either.

The only issue with the K1 is it can split a bit before scraping if the mix is too wet. If you like a wet mix either save a bit of snot to rub in the splits if you get them or wet the walls down before you apply it and wet K1 after its had 30 mins drying with a spray.

The K1 is currently better than Weber for spraying and not far behind Parex with the added benefit of quicker set times and it doesn't seem to crack blocks from being over strong either. K1 wasn't that good when it first came out but it's a different product now imo. FT shouldn't be compared...

If you are cracking over meshed basecoat with FT next time try adding a touch more water to your mix and giving it a double mix with a rest in between, alternatively with K1 add a bit less. FT is cement heavy and not enough water can make it a bit strong, and K1 is not as cement heavy so too...