Search results

I will not trust grit ever again....

A chancer using a flex trowel throughout the gauge...

Same here pal(y)

Fence paint is more rare than multi finish...:muyenojado:

Just did my fence in the same as it was the only colour left.... :LOL:

Ive a full empty house to skim but isnt a new build..... Bloody changed my mind 5 times if I'm going in....

I use the b and q drywall as its whiter than dg... Just make sure you cut your lenghts before mixing at it goes off like a rocket... Bag says 60 mins... I say 30 mins max.......

Plasterboard

Not been back yet to see the job bud so not sure how thick it went on but its got coving in and the profile is 10mm and there is still at least 6-7mm of it still showing....they must have shocked the ceiling from above.....

Just remembered it will either be thistle or more likely one from sovereign.... There rep got me into there grit many moons ago...

Take longer to get it out than to put it up....lol

No, the grit has......lol

I own the rights to that picture and want £1 comission for every job you get......lol

To be fair she used to be family and is not kicking off so will sort it.... Just hate things failing....

Im hoping the rest has held....lol

With how long ago it was i think it was thistle..... I only use the cementone/bostik one now....

A bedroom pal, it may just be skim as it was before the invention of the zombie mix.... She is saying it was nearly 8yrs ago i did it ...

I will sort for free but normally tell customers that skimming over artex is at their risk because i advise to overboard... But the cost of removing the coving and replacing normally puts them off...

Just got a message to say a ceiling i did over 5 years ago failed...

What exactly is standard plaster???? If a gypsum based plaster has been used you could have salt/mineral problems.... I would have sprayed the area with a salt inhibitor and rendered with renovating plaster....

Its just the lazy way pal.... No one likes knocking off especially in an occupied house..

A lot of damp company's use the newton membrane as its a diy job.... Dont need to be a trade to install it........ They tell customers damp cant come through it and you can decorate it in just a week..... Whilst those point's are true its not a good practice......i often comment on Facebook...

I went with Makita as they did a better radio.....lol

Ha ha ha ha....

I fought with many a cheap stapler back in the day until i bought the dewalt one... Its been awesome.... Its getting abit tired now but i have had it over 8years.... I would buy another in a heartbeat....

I would never use carlite bonding on a brick chimney just because of salts and minerals.... Never mind it could cause damp issues....

You need to get it checked pal...damp would have to be bad to feel it by hand ...

Just had a free roll of whack.... Was very good.....

Yes pal, i buy the pink one in bulk..... good stuff

Just done a single skin garage conversion and the spec off building regs was to put breathable membrane on the back side of the stud, kingspan in the stud and visqueen on the warm side of the insulation...

I personally wouldn't use foil boards but put visqueen over the insulation and stud work then just board it...

I do the same if a small/ straight forward job but if its a large or bitty job i whats app it to get the price approved, i then email it over....... Saves typing up emails on a job you haven't got....

I sort of do the same, get them send pictures... Send them a ball park figure and if its in there budget i call over and quote it properly..... Saves doing a round trip of 10 miles and an hour of my time quoting a job i have no chance of getting.......

Cementone / bostik for me..... Blue grit doesn't apply even and is hard to cover, bg one is to dear, the yellow bond-it one runs down the wall....

The eze isnt as nice in the hand agree but the eze has a better pole attachment... I have the refina one also but only use it for render....

The eze spat is awesome and the corners are already rounded...

Thanks pal, no need to rend aid or mesh then ?

No problem, ive done years of internal on brick but little external and never on block..... Im thinking of using ocr, mesh the 1st coat and scratch it... Let it cure then top it with ocr.....

Just looking at that myself... Cheaper than normal ocr also....

Its at my own house....lol

Thanks rigsby... The wall is brand new, whilst it has no dpc it does have 4 courses of engineering bricks so don't think damp will be an issue... Thought about Ocr but im sure id seen on here lots of people had had issues with cracks ..

Just trialed some parex renovating.... Just as good as the tarmac renovating.... Just waiting to see the price....

Are they low suction then buddy ?

I've a garden wall to render and am just wondering best ratio? Done 15 yrs of internal stuff and odd externals but always been brick work.... The wall is a 7.3n hollow block.... Was thinking 4-1 scratch and 5-1-1 top.... Is this ok ?... Ta in advance...

Ive had mine 8 yrs now...... Best money ive spent ...

Nope , just use it as its been designed and manufactured....

Bonding is a gypsum based product so cannot be used outside.... Just use the correct materials...... Job done....

Black pudding...

I would use not of the above are not suitable for an old house.... use Sand and cement render with added water proofer....