Search results

tack a battern on the wall and ceiling the depth of the existing cove , then cut a length of plasterboard to fit between the batterns the length you wish to cove, now score the back of the plasterboard down the length about 4 or 5 times 1" to 2" apart, depending on the size of the cove, now snap...

strieght or feather edge good quality boat level, can hold both in one hand, tap board or bead with foot or other hand to get plumb

all depends on what you are going on weather it be old, damp or other, as a guide two coat your work scratch coat, next lay your second coat on rule it off to what you want, shut it down with your float allow it to hazel off then rub it up with your float until you have it where you want, just...

you need to vent any area that has no air flow otherwise that area will sweat and cause condensation and other damp problems, also you must think about air flow say maybe? ( gas installations ect) where air flow is very important. especially when double glazing has been installed. ??? Worth a...

man from eastern europe ;D very good mixer yar! ;D very cheap aswell!

Grand wizard knows all about that spraying malarky!

same consistency,or less round than the fist gauge, provided you have let the first inns to hazel off, if the job is smallish then you can put the left over mix back in the bucket with some water and remix it. Some on here will say (no! no! goes against the nvq trust me it is ok to do it) but...

I try to avoid sika it tends to make the mix flat n dead ,hard to spread it! there are just as good products on the market, you must make a good dence render:( sharp sand not soft sand ) mix 3.1 if your doing damp remedial work. you can also buy pre packed renders with all the addetives in it...

supper glue it together? ;D

yer nice one...!

it sounds like you used a lot of water to lay your 1st ins down, and it has gone in to far, so when you trowel the 2nd ins you have lost the board suction, and it will slide around as if on wet pva. hope this helps...

(1)if the existing is of sound then patch in first then slurry the hole area, i use a s/c and pva, i take it that existing is painted? once slurryed i would put a basecoat 3/1 waterproof scratch,(2) if the existing is of poor then take off the top coat back to a sound backing , prim as described...

could even be the carpet fitter with nailing the gripper rails down?

www.asbestos-answers.co.uk it is dangerous mate. and i would not even think about just putting finishing plaster onto artex bond & set is a proper job!

i am on my builder.com quoted about 12 jobs, and never got one job, i don't bother with it now its a waste of time, if you pay them you can put up to 4 "happy costomer feedbacks" on there so when someone is looking for trades they will see people with feedbacks first

did the skim separate from the pva as you applied it? also the walls are getting cleaned by contract cleaners, with "polish" on every thing! that will cause the pva to separate on application, if that's the case then run some s/c through your pva, and do not apply if pva has dried always apply...

not used much of the bond it agents , but am getting use to gyp bond, its ok if you don't have to get out in one day, if it is one day then go for good old pva method.

keep a slurry bucket in th van:)

its hard pocket out there, we have to keep at it thou? "half a loaf better than no loaf!"

its the micro fibrese that you do not see that are :- (tox........

site work!? well, not quite sure what that means? oh yer it seams to be work your nutts off fo a pittens of pay, while eUros swan around doing jack s**t!! thats what it means!!!!!

yer same as tony, done tax returns great this online tax thingy tax doesn't need to be taxing! no not many, they gave me a refund 3,000 great so i spent that, then.then they decided i owed them 7,000, had to get my accountant to do 3 years accounts, cost me 1,000 now the tax man only wants 2,500...

i don't know how you can say, 3 hours mate! its not like walking on to a site, you have to take in to consideration that it is probble an ocupied propery with carpets and furniture that has to be protected and sheeted up, it will take at least 6 hour of any ones time, its not like slaping it on...

it,s kick b*ll*ck and bite time ;D going out tomorrow calling on any site i see, going to put my polis accent on, me think workit vedy good yes! i can dooz zat boss me very good spreeder boss very cheep boss me work 40 hors a day boss, no seriously got to have look around thou got to get...

if the plaster has dried right out u need to soak it in again . if you don't it will dry the adhesive out to quick and not really take, diamond key ceiling and walls with a stanley as well, i all so nail it here and there with a tackwise gun.

can't help you on that on sb i've only ever used sand n cement on exteriors not clued up on the new type of renders.

yep don't mind a bit of plastering, wish i had some to do!! ;D .

oasis hello m8, over the years I've done loads of them jobs, going by the photo's i would definitely float out in bonding first, i wouldn't even think about trying to bring it out in 3 coats of skim. the way to go is, patch up all areas that need dubbing out with a bit of fast bonding, then bead...

hello sassy, you could paste the brickwork up with a slurry of sand cement and a pva, then render it up or dry line it. we normally use a powdered dry wall adhesive and not that stuff in that clip i would think that tubed stuff would be expensive.

how can you compeat with prices, when you ve got monkeys like these around. i just love the comment " no builders have been on it" i should think not ;D https://www.thesun.co.uk/sol/homepage/news/weird/article2145886.ece they are cheap thou....

i think that it is called portaflek and is a type of paint that is sprayed on? you could try to texture it a bit, it would not stand out so much, ma be a drop of wet skim then dip a damp sponge stipple over it see how it looks, the maybe soften it of with a light wet brush just be for it sets. a...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ROce8DuItH4

just feather it in to the existing edge

hey, Don't price on the spot, get back to them later, then move on move on, when they want it done they will get back to who they think is the best plasterer in there eyes. (price, personality, skill, don't forget to sell Your Skills, let them know that you are confident, )... just a...

use tile adesive to stick the coving that will help aswell.

if the plaster is giving you a hard time try the edge of a wet float to help lay it down, then trowel the fat in to it, then go on with your next coat!

had a go on them stilt things ***kingell could'nt let go of the picture rail ;D ;D ;D ;D

i take it you are plastering the lid? stick your coving as normal it will stick to the lid OK but you need to get some fixings through the tiles drill where there is a grout line carefully with "NO hammer on " plug it and screw No6 screws don't over tight, let the coving set first. before...

done a lime job in potton up the a1 there, a burn out, thatched roof fooked the hole of the place, grade 2 listed, new roof thatch,rafters joists great job, every thing put back to original, www.old house store.co.uk suplyed all the lathe nails and lime stuff.

stilts, are they allowed to be used on site work?

oh yer! can,t find my matches must of left them in my other jacket ;D ;D ;D

it can be caused by the heating being whacked on full blast, making every thing shrink! :)

don't any one use dute skrim any more? ??? there you go then, no wonder its all cracking ;D ;D ;D

must be the climate change, bring back the old float & set systems the old ways are always the best ;D ;D ;)

pug answered that, you can put some ducked tape around the bolts just to soften the blow on your trowel if you clank one of them.

hey sharky, a'nt got any work at the moment, but message me with your contact details, you never know somthing might come in. we work the same area,. We like to work as a 2n1 gang, if your on the tools as well is a bonus. "Hey grandy any news on that north london job?."

www.asbestos-answers.co.uk

there are lots of reasons they pop, insulation Court between the stud-work and boards, screws driven into the boards to far boards not pulled up far enough, should only pull the board up till the screws are flush with the boards but are tight to the stud-work, :) and, i just love it when they...

hello danny, yer if you need a 2and1 gang, were only 1hour away from slough, jun 5 m1 give us a shout if you need a hand, cheers m8! :)

the job i had lined up to get me over Christmas, two high spec properties, has ground to a halt and is all locked up half finished. they ed just boarding it! :(