Scud the blockwork

Simon85 said:
What do u do instead. They tend to dry in far to quickly. They are a c**t of a thing.
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I just get on and float out using the box screed method. I'm sure if you do a search you'll find plenty on the subject if you're not familiar with it.
 
essexandy said:
I just get on and float out using the box screed method. I'm sure if you do a search you'll find plenty on the subject if you're not familiar with it.
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Does the mortar still not dry in like f**k, or do u only coat and straighten it in the sections then
 
Have to put a raised base on also. Needs to be thicker than normal. Normally go the thickness of a roofing lath. How thick is too thick before running into problems. Prob need done in 3 coats.
 
Can u scratch it out so as to make it easier to top coat. Set ur laths and scratch below the line of your base. We usually use plained lath, for base and bands, it's about 3/4inch I think. Takes a bit of the weight off the coat
 
Simon85 said:
Does the mortar still not dry in like f**k, or do u only coat and straighten it in the sections then
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Yes on internal work you can get loads of suction but by working in sections, usually four or five, coming down the wall from screed to screed suction isn't a problem. In fact I'd much rather have suction than not.
 
essexandy said:
Yes on internal work you can get loads of suction but by working in sections, usually four or five, coming down the wall from screed to screed suction isn't a problem. In fact I'd much rather have suction than not.
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Next time you do some internal floating perhaps you could take some pictures of the screed method you speak of. It’s a lost technique now.
 
Simon85 said:
Can u scratch it out so as to make it easier to top coat. Set ur laths and scratch below the line of your base. We usually use plained lath, for base and bands, it's about 3/4inch I think. Takes a bit of the weight off the coat
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Yes I will scratch it out in 3 coats. How far is to far sometimes. Prob need a depth of near 40mm
 
Cornelius said:
Next time you do some internal floating perhaps you could take some pictures of the screed method you speak of. It’s a lost technique now.
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To be honest we hardly ever get asked for solid plastering now, all direct bonded board. Shame.
 
Cornelius said:
Next time you do some internal floating perhaps you could take some pictures of the screed method you speak of. It’s a lost technique now.
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Cornelius if you take a quick look at our website there are just a couple of pictures of me floating a long wall with S&C.
Maybe not the best picture to show how screeds are used but that's not why they were taken.
 
essexandy said:
Cornelius if you take a quick look at our website there are just a couple of pictures of me floating a long wall with S&C.
Maybe not the best picture to show how screeds are used but that's not why they were taken.
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What’s the website mate I love being nosey
 
Cornelius said:
I like that, what are the bars?
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I call them profiles. U can pull them out no problem or just scrim over them. We find u can float out a lot more as u are not pissing about with a rule. Works well with the machine. And u know the walls are bang on.
 
theclemo said:
I call them profiles. U can pull them out no problem or just scrim over them. We find u can float out a lot more as u are not pissing about with a rule. Works well with the machine. And u know the walls are bang on.
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How deep are they? Piece of piss dabbing those in makes life easier (y)
 
Can just use thin strips of 9.5mm plasterboard can even do ceiling & skirt lines....

Effort at the beginning but only way to make for a A1 job.

Floating without setting out is ok for price work or perfect blockwork.
 
I was taught (on short C&G course) that all floating and rendering should be done with the box method. Today floated out a wall using strip of plasterboard and it was a doddle.

The idea behind the box screed is to make your own panels to level from. It does work but takes time... Unless you need to get a perfect wall you don't need to do it.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
If I’m honest the gang I work with at the moment we floated a massive high budget house earlier this year we didn’t put a level anywhere near anything apart from the beads , literally just coated everything and ruled it off with a 2.4m edge . No screeds or anything like that, the block work was shite so our floating would have been pretty average but it’s just the way things are done now rush rush rush
 
I was going ahead setting up beads and boarding ceilings and studwork and left the trowel monkeys to chuck it on. One guy laying it on one guy mixing and ruling off . I done a couple small bathrooms and a bedroom but it was just a lash up to be honest site agent down our neck everyday pushing and pushing suggesting to start skimming at 3pm I jacked it in shortly afterwards
 
I like the video but he didn’t plumb his vertical screeds? Bit pointless after all the time and effort defeats the purpose. Personally I can see the little rips of Plasterboard or @theclemo bar system working best.
 
You should not have to plumb your screeds as block work should be already . They used to say that wet plaster should be about 5/8ths (imperial) thick with finish an any more than that you would be paid extra for filling out but that was a long time ago . Never get to do any floating now as its all dab but believe me when i say that there is no more satisfying work than sand and cement float and skim .
 
Ch
Cornelius said:
I like the video but he didn’t plumb his vertical screeds? Bit pointless after all the time and effort defeats the purpose. Personally I can see the little rips of Plasterboard or @theclemo bar system working best.[/QUOT Jesus f**k didn’t he take his time could have floated the wall twice over, how many people do you find that will pay the money for plum and dot? Every one wants fast track because it is so much cheaper. That aside it’s easy enough to float a wall straight and true free hand
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zombie said:
Can just use thin strips of 9.5mm plasterboard can even do ceiling & skirt lines....

Effort at the beginning but only way to make for a A1 job.

Floating without setting out is ok for price work or perfect blockwork.
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Absolute rubbish. A proper spread will be able to float a wall to a high standard without sticking all sorts of shite to the wall first.
 
essexandy said:
Absolute rubbish. A proper spread will be able to float a wall to a high standard without sticking all sorts of shite to the wall first.
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I think you have started something here, seems most don’t know the difference between fast track and plum and dot either that or their floating is so skewed because they don’t know how to use a rule
 
essexandy said:
Absolute rubbish. A proper spread will be able to float a wall to a high standard without sticking all sorts of shite to the wall first.
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With the greatest of respect Andy I'm not for 1 minute saying I can't float a wall without...

But what I'm saying is if you set each internal bang level string line and set your ceiling & skirtng line and set every 600mm level.

You can't get a truer wall than that no matter who you are or how good you think you are.
 
zombie said:
With the greatest of respect Andy I'm not for 1 minute saying I can't float a wall without...

But what I'm saying is if you set each internal bang level string line and set your ceiling & skirtng line and set every 600mm level.

You can't get a truer wall than that no matter who you are or how good you think you are.
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The only problem with that is that people won’t pay for plum and dot as it takes to long and costs to much
 
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