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No mate. It's not.

The new Pral MF is a slower setter apparently not tried it as if yet, Pral M is a nightmare this time of year, probably the worst one for knowing when to stick or twist.

Did you spray it mate and did you serrate it before levelling? Not a lot of body to HPX as its mostly adhesive so it goes on thin on CP board it'll slide if applied too thick and / or you trap air which doesn't get removed. Trapping air and then slipping tends to be a problem for the sprayers...

We do have a big vat for such jobs, yes. :numberone:We wouldn't get the machine out for 9 bags either, not that we get many jobs that size these days.

If you can't handball 9m of that you need to fookin give up. Jesus. Its one feckin mix.

Ask at the college for apprentices?

2-3 experienced spreads will outrun a machine with one man and a bag boy. Loading outs a pain these days though, starting to fall apart at the seams.

We hand apply small jobs. The machine is for jobs that are a bit more substantial.

Pure white is a bright white. The next one down is like K1 white. Natural white or chalk white, something like that.

We had a gang got splits as well, one of the other lads went over and softened the mix and showed them how to get the air out, never had one since.

I disagree with you and you don't like it when you're used to being in an echo chamber. Its ok to have preference to material, I prefer my own stuff. Some guys like a dense meaty feel under the trowel, some like it to have no feel and full of air. That's fine. You need to get your head around...

Sigh, I use it a lot, customers ask for it a lot, it's probably the most asked for gear there is. I make money of it. I'm going to criticise guys who make out its crap because they can't handle it. A nicely done job in this gear looks as good as anything else out there. This is their and my...

Make sure block mortar has cured and wall isn't saturated. Use r10 if in doubt. Put more gear on you tight get.

I'm approved in it, and Parex, Weber, Alumasc, Envirowall, Art brick, Structherm. Learn your gear, quit bitchin about nowt and give the punters what they want. If we've not used owt before I've got a test wall at the yard and we'll cover that in it but whatever a punter wants we'll give them...

There's lots using K Rend scratch renders without problems. Just sayin.

Well between the Germans poisoning everyone and hiding it and the French stuff not lasting 2 minutes we're proper f**k*d.

I don't murder it. If you're getting splits it's trapped air, slow down marra, soften your mix and get the air out and pull the gear together on the spray lines. Weber traps air as well given the right conditions which can make it look like its been shot gunned instead of splits. It's from...

Gash in what way? I'd agree FT can be a bit heavy and teary but K1.. It's fine. We do a lot of the Silicone I actually quite like it, it's one of my top 4.

Just trowel it up, it's nice enough. Maybe a bit of a light sponge over but no real need.

Just use Hp12 over the lot. Its specced over cement board and brick. Might need a splash of R7 on the bricks. No need for HPX, unless you like pi**ing money up the wall.

Sounds a bit quick for bigger walls to me. Not had a play with weber for a bit.

The usual re-bagged stuff from Eastern Europe or further a field I suspect. A quick check on my company checker suggests they aren't doing as much as their glossy marketing suggests. Last set of accounts shows £600 quid in the bank.

I'm surprised PFT doesn't tell you to do one lol. Someone starts a PFT thread and your vending M Techs with a PFT banner!

We ran it through the G4, settings probably won't help you. Spray it on the slightly wet side, it should hang nicely if you get the mix right. We base coated the beads on the first run and it caused us big grief. The top was hard on the edges as suction dried it out and soft in the middle where...

Tight first pass with mesh. 4-5mm tight and flat as you can to get mesh bedded. Let it pull in but not set, don't go straight back over it give it a bit to get some body. 8mm last pass as I said get first pass flat to avoid halos. Fix the beads with firtrees, don't stick, this gear responds to...

You can't put thin coats directly onto Parex Parinter, it's designed to attack paint type resins so it can stick to them.

Let 1st pass pull in a bit, so do the entire wall. Soften your mix a bit to get the air out easier and make sure you do get it out as its denser, stronger gear than some and the air might not come out by itself leading to splits and holes showing up when scraping. K Rend behaves a similar way.

If you're struggling to keep up think about using a base coat before topping. Much easier for a two man team with one inexperienced member. Beauty of it is base coats tend to be cheaper and you can base coat all day without worrying about stuff going off. Next day is just a matter of topping...

5c and rising if you want to maintain spec. Water starts to crystallise at just below 3c not ideal for a setting cement and apparently easy to spot under a microscope. The 5c limit is obviously to maintain a bit of margin above where problems start to happen.

I swear I use different gear to you lot lol. Is there another K Rend I don't know about? Used loads of it recently it's just been on quite a few specs we've had.

Rendit stock that colour by the looks of their website.

Expansion joint pushed into the corner gets them as crisp as hell. Protects against corners that ain't been properly tied as well.

Ft is for the man with a trowel and bucket and nowt else. K1 for the man with a van full of tools to fook about with wet render.

Monorex splatters quite nice.

The UK has its own sand, cements and chemical manufacturers and it now has a currency that's competitive. Might be time to buy British.

Get a plasterer who knows what they are doing quite frankly. Which hp are you using and what is the wall build up? The base coat can be topped next day for bagged top coats, it's just the bucket coats that need the wall fully cured out. Also get an applicator who understands the material...

Who the hell is WACK?

Tell your plumber to fit a pipe collar. I'm more interested in how the top layer of render managed to pop off the apparently flat bottom layer with no sign of any bonding.

They deliver anywhere mate. Pallets everywhere getting sent when you go in.

You did let the Hp12 fully set before topping off? Any sign of damp in the walls?

The only unpainted sand and cement I tend to come across is usually full of water proofer or sealed with something. I assume that you checked for this? The only thing Hp12 doesn't stick to is stuff that doesn't like water... The stuff is a board adhesive, should stick like hell. In fact...

Make sure walls are flat before starting and the renders dry and dusty when scratching.

Price the customer on both and let them pick.

The Rendit lads would sort that out I bet.

Go on you render warrior you. :baaa: In answer to the question, yes K rend is a "monocouche," render and some of us actually manage to get it on the wall.

Morning bead, afternoon lay, scratch it next day. What's the rush? The weather is what it is. Love next day scrape season myself. Loads less stress and no late nights hoping the hurry up will actually start to work. Nowt worse than a soft scrape in the dark, recipe for disaster if you ask me.

It's a swine when trying to whack 15mm on at once. Takes an age to be able to get on it and it still tears and slides all over the place. Loads better over at 10mm over a base coat or if you have to a tight first pass that's pulled in quite a bit before topping.

If the wall is shaded, constantly damp and already growing algae then applying a layer of k rend or any other porous render won't stop it doing any of that. Walls that are generally dry and correctly protected by roof overhang, correctly positioned roof tiles and gutters that don't leak or are...

So let's say the system cracks, they inspect and find a crack in the substrate what would they do then? I'm genuinely interested in this response because if they cover in this scenario I have use for it.

Just ask them if the renders guaranteed to not crack if the background moves. Background movement causes most cracks, very rare render just spontaneously cracks on its own.